Croatia holidays from 2022
The Season 2025
First in our 2025 boating year are winter works being carried out at Marina Nautica. On 3rd March Tarilian is lifted and stored ashore. I visit during the following days. The March weather is bright and mild.
I further visit Istrian marinas at Funtana, Vrsar and Veruda to see whether they have an annual berth available. Funtana is small, Vrsar fully occupied but Veruda offers a berth on pier 1, where we stayed as visitors before. It seems suitable and I book it. Veruda does not reserve annual spaces in advance; as soon as you “reserve” it the contract starts immediately even if you are not ready to occupy it straight away; this policy seems a bit harsh to a newcomer.
On 8th May I take Tarilian to her new berth at Veruda, together with a helper. We travel in light rain and encounter SW swell near to Pula.
Anyway, the boat ready for the new season. After the last years' works projects Tarilian is no a longer a tired “old lady” but a refitted traditional trawler yacht, refurbished inside and out.
OUR FIRST STAY
Our 2025 summer season starts differently from previous ones. Not only are we based in a new marina, our travel to Croatia is done without aeroplanes, going via Vienna where I have based a car.
On June 3rd we take a Eurostar train from St Pancras to Brussels where we change to a German fast train to Frankfurt for the first leg of the journey. The following day we have a train from Frankfurt directly to Vienna; the journey goes well apart from some delay at the start. On 6th June we drive to Novigrad. The advantage of travelling to the boat by car is that you have the car available during all of your stay which makes you far more flexible.
After settling in and preparing the boat we get ready to start cruising on 10th June.
The weather is fine and calm, and there is a forecast for more of it. It seems this time we have pulled the long straw.
Our first journey is to Mali Losinj. The Kvarner crossing is pleasant. We anchor for lunch at Artaturi bay, the cove to north outside the entrance to Mali Losinj bay.
The following day, 11th June, we continue our journey to Rab. There is initially NE (Bora) swell, when crossing towards Rab, we anchor for lunch at Baldarin cove (S end of Cres).
By 15:00 the swell has stopped, we continue and berth in the ACI marina Rab. The marina does not operate a permanent watch for incoming boats, if there is no marinero in sight, call VHF Ch.17. An alternative to the ACI marina is berthing at the renewed town quay on the opposite side.
We find Rab uncrowded and pleasant, only few yachts in the marina, the weather stays fine. We stay in Rab for a couple of days. Old town Rab is unique in its layout and townscape, the place has been a holiday destination for generations, mainly Austrians and Germans in the past. I compare some old photos taken by my father with the present.
On Saturday, 14th , we start off to Krk, the temperature has risen to 30 deg C.
We make an anchor stop nearby at the SE coast of Rab, at cove of Valsika. Then carry on to Punat and berth at Marina Punat
We stay in Punat, the pleasant summerly weather continues on Sunday but from Monday 16th morning it gets cloudy, then rain and thunder, Bora starts before noon and continues during the day. It blows in the marina at 9 to 14kn, with gusts up to 21kn.
On 17th the weather is drier but the Bora continues. We have plenty of time and sit out the wind in Punat.
Marina Punat is hailed as one of the best marinas in Croatia and it certainly seems well run; it is located in a natural bay. One of the attractions to keep one’s boat there is the road bridge to the island which provides easy car access from the Rijeka motorway.
The entrance to the bay is through a narrow passage which is shallow and marked by lateral buoys. There is a large restaurant in the marina, but, if one prefers more simple eateries, a small taverna, Konoba Maslina, is on the doorstep. It gets busy, better to call them. The surroundings of the marina are green and the village of Punat less than one kilometer away with further catering offers.
However, to visit Krk old town I need to hire a taxi. There is a nice historic castle in town, Frankopan castle, which provides sea and harbour views from its walls, and the old town is pleasant and offers amenities to the tourist.
My personal impression is, maybe very superficial, that tourism here is at a lower level, which is not a bad thing. There are historic remains and nice coastal paths but no outstanding attractions.
The wind has mostly blow out within two days; on 18th June the weather is favourable for the trip back to Rab. We follow the same route that we came, and stop at Litovica / Valsika cove for belated lunch, before berthing at ACI marina Rab.
The sunny hot weather continues and we enjoy staying in Rab for a couple more day. It's a very charming environment. Right by the marina petrol station we find a good and reasonable konoba. Not such a glamorous environments but a warm welcome.
For 21st June the weather forecast seems favourable for a trip to Mali Losinj, the Bora should have ceased and light SW started.
Before leaving we take on fuel at the station by the marina. The forecast proves inaccurate; there is still light Bora but the swell is diminishing. We take an anchor break at Uvala Baldarin (Cres), then move on to Mali Losinj and berth at the town harbour.
It’s Saturday and I get concerned about a communal "music celebration" on the main square, with thumping bass, but it turns out to be at acceptable volume, and stops after 23:00. However, the crew of a Slovenian motorboat on the opposite site of the pier are having their own party, there is chanting, screaming and playing music till after midnight. It’s just a brief encounter with insensitive unmannered fun and drink crews we’d prefer not to have around us.
The next day, 22nd June, the warm and sunny weather continues. The forecast predicts Bora 4, but it ceases during the morning. There should be NE swell until 13:00, then NW wind.
We set off towards Pula, in light wind, pass Unije by 12:00 and cross the Kvarner. At 13:00, mid of the Kvarner, NE swell is still present but is diminishing. This time the forecast was precise.
Closer to Istria we decide to go to a bay to anchor for (late) lunch first before continuing to the home berth. Uvala Portic, the nearest and best place, is very busy, but we find space on the outskirts. Later return to Veruda and berth at 17:30.
From 23rd June we enjoy our time on the boat staying in the marina. There are things to mess about, looking for a place to go for a swim and exploring neighbouring bays by dinghy. I also deal with boat bits, the satTV antenna, and run updates on the Simrad system and the GMDSS sat phone.
Around 28th June a heat wave starts with 33 deg C day temperature and hot sun all day.
We go out for a day at anchor to Uvala Portic on July 2nd before driving back to Vienna on Thursday July 3rd .
After a few days at my flat in Vienna, and visiting friends, we return home on July 8th.
For the first time, I dared to book us a train journey starting from Vienna at 9:13 to London in one day, taking a total of 13 hours 44min to get to St Pancras. Against concerns regarding the notorious unreliability of the Deutsche Bahn rail network, we are lucky and get home on time.
OUR SECOND STAY
For our second visit we do not want to try our luck with train journeys again, and, based on my previous experience with driving from Londonl, decide that using my car might be more convenient.
On August 27th morning we set off towards the Channel tunnel, with the plan for an overnight stay at a well located hotel at Wiesbaden. Next day continue to Vienna.
On Sunday 31st August drive to Pula.
Settle in and get the boat ready. We notice countless small transparent jelly fish floating overall, they are apparently sea walnuts and, luckily, do not sting. I hope they do get in a boat’s cooling system. Their increasing numbers are due to the higher water temperatures in the North Adriatic.
The 2nd Sept starts with heavy rain storms but they clear by the evening.
On 3rd September, with an OK weather forecast, only light wind and without warnings, and a good outlook, we get off to a trip towards to north and over towards Venice.
Today’s target is Novigrad. Stop for lunch at Vestar cove but do not stay too long; despite low wind there is still NW swell that rocks the boat, it may be a remainder from yesterday’s rain storms.
Cloud formations remind that there is still moisture in the air.
On 4th September we continue the trip from Novigrad towards Lignano. For lunch we anchor in a nondescript cove south of Umag where there seem to be works going on; afterwards 22 nm 302 deg straight across to Italy.
The Trieste coast is too far to see, but Grado comes into vision.
I identified Marina Uno, on the Tagliamento river, on the southern end of Lignano Riviera, as a good place to stop on the way to Venice. We do not get disappointed. We are berthed outside along the actual river, which is convenient. Their restaurant is just what you’d expect of a quality eatery in Northern Italy, smooth professional welcome and excellent creative food.
Note that the access channel to the river is marked by piles, it is shallow.
The forecast for the next day are W and variable light winds, sunny. What could be better to get to Venice. We set off at 10:30.
At midday anchor for lunch at the mouth of river Piave. One has to get used to the sandy shallowness of these flat north Adriatic coasts. Fishing is done here with land based large nets which get lowered into the water.
After lunch we carry on passing Jesolo which has spread all over the coast with its 15 km of sandy beaches, fun parks and skyscrapers.
The approach to Venice is via the Porta del Lido entrance, and into Venice past the currently open Moses system floodgates.
After entering Venice we make a short tour of St Mark’s basin and the Guidecca canal. Unfortunately we do not have a friend around on a boat who can take images of Tarilian at Venice.
Navigating Venice’ waterways, stirred up continually by countless vessels, the hectic traffic of public transport, commercial, taxi and private vessels is a special experience for the helmsman, in front of the incomparable sights we all know.
Then turn back and head for Certosa island; the entrance to the access channel to Certosa marina must be approached from St Andrea island.
We have seen Venice before, some on more than one occasions, so tours on packed vaporetti, or squeezing through crowds in narrow alleyways, is of no interest to us.
Yet, we need to get to town from Certosa, and getting tickets for the vaporetto isn’t easy in the digital era. Eventually we get assistance from the marina office. Otherwise, we are less pleased with the services offered by the marina; their only restaurant is completely shut, the building is in refurbishment, there isn't even a café or the smallest of shops. Certosa island, that is so much part of Venice, has got good attractions and potential, not to cater to tourists is not understandable.
The ride to the main island is rather annoying. When you have finally worked lines to use and time tables, and proceed to the Certosa stop, you find the waiting platform gets ferociously shaken by the swell of fast passing taxi boats and other ferries, there is no speed limit control in the area. Despite all “app only” digital glory of AVM Venezia there is no live information available; the only ticketing and credit card terminal is defunct. Mind you, the stop of the 4.1 / 4.2 is on demand, the boat goes past if you don’t make yourself know. Italian public services like in the Lira days.
Anyhow, once we get to San Zaccaria and walk to St Mark’s by analogue means, the annoyance is forgotten. We find it’s not hopelessly crowded as I had feared, it’s pleasant, and we easily get a table in one of the traditional cafés in the square. Then do a little walk through town towards Rialto. I thought I remembered it all, but of course I don’t.
The walk gets a bit busy; we sit down on a quay at one of the many picturesque canals by a Servicio Gondole station, and watch life going past. I get surprised how difficult selling to foreigners sometimes can be. They don’t seem to know what they want, how many they are, are unable to make up their mind, try to negotiate regulated tariffs and waste the time of the gondoliere.
For dinner I have chosen the Nuova Perla on the corner of Riva de Sette Martiri, right by the water. We find their service pleasant, the proprietor funny, the food of high quality, so it’s value for money.
The way back to the Pietro di Castello stop, to catch our only transport back to the marina island, is a bit lonely but we are greeted by a swarm of aggressive mosquitos at the waiting platform.
The following day, 7th Sept, we start the return journey, today’s target is Umag, about 51 nm to go. The forecast says NE 3-4 reducing and turning N. Cloud and sun. That seems fine.
When leaving Certosa, you note how different Venice suddenly is once outside the hotspot zones. I notice a tidal current of 1-1.5 kn in the lagoon, as on the way in. Hazy skies, hardly any wind and calm seas.
We stop for lunch off the sandy beaches of Jesolo, near to where we had stopped before, just dropping the hook at five meters depth in no wind. After lunch, at 13:25, set off and sail at 93 deg 42 nm across towards Umag, only light swell and mostly calm. Change the Italian back to the Croatian guest flag after crossing the sea border.
Berth ACI marina Umag at 17:35, in hazy sunshine, 27 deg C and light E.
The following morning, 8th September, we continue our voyage towards Veruda, 43 nm to go. The weather continues to be perfect for cruising, NE up to 3 and sunny. 26 deg C max.
In light Westerly wind we anchor the E side of Sv Andrija cove (Tribunj) for lunch, there are water castles and a swimming chain. We anchor outside the marked area.
I notice jelly fish being around.
Continue and berth marina Veruda at 16:30.
The next days are marked by rain and thunderstorms, patches of fine weather followed again by showers, but the 15th Sept should be fine. We set out for a day trip to explore the Medulin bay. Anchor outside the Uvala Burle.
On the opposite side from the gentle and pleasant environment at Medulin is the appalling nuisance from construction works at marina Veruda close to our pier. A sizeable new hotel is built right above it, and the access road has to be cut through the rocks right on the boundaries of the marina. Hydraulic hammers and heavy attachments fitted onto excavators deliver continuous high-impact blows shattering solid rock for hours every day. Construction work goes on all season as if there were no paying holiday guests around. This is Croatia, too.
On 16th Sept I do a test run along the coast. It shows a top speed of 17.6 kn at 2700 revs, at 2000 revs the cruising speed is 11.8 kn. Tarilian has not lost since I bought her.
18th September, with a forecast for fine weather, we start a further trip to Mali Losinj.
The second part of Kvarner has still N-NW swell, but only light. Lovely clear visibility en route.
Anchor east of Unije lighthouse on rocky ground, amazing clear blue water, some swell perhaps from passing boats.
Filling fuel at 15:00 in Mali Losinj by the harbour proves a little unpleasant. Getting on and off land isn’t so easy here, the fuel hose is heavy; there is minor spillage. We berth in the town harbour by 16:10 in light W. The floating pontoons in Mali Losinj town harbour are quite, that means the gangway needs to be steeper.
Restaurant Boccavera proves to be good again. We find Mali Losinj relaxed and pleasant at this time. It is another old place that has seen tourism for generations.
On the following day we shelve the idea to travel on to Olib, due to concerns about potential windy weather on the return journey afterwards. We could run short of time for our return to base. We stay in Mali Losinj for the day.
I visit the interesting modern ‘Museum of Apoxyomenos’ in the harbour. The fine weather encourages taking photos.
Thinking of dinner I find restaurant Nostromo, on the sea front steps away from our pier, is highly rated on google; we try it for dinner. It's indeed excellent, great menu and professional service. The best we have found at Mali Losing, what a surprise.
On September 20th we return to Veruda in sunny and calm weather, warm up to 28 deg C, under blue autumn skies.
At midday we anchor in the bay outside Unije, in clear azure water. After lunch we cross the Kvarner and make a further anchor stop at Portic cove, for coffee and a final swim, before returning to our base in Marina Veruda.
Crossing the Kvarner twice within 3 days reminds me how my perception has changed; Kvarner crossing had been my foe since a harrowing experience on an Austrian sail training yacht 30 years ago, the only time ever I fell seasick. I have kept my respect of the Bora ridden stretch of water but lost the fear. In the right conditions it’s a rewarding experience. 20 nm in the open does not take too long, with reasonable visibility you never loose sight of land, yet it gives you the unique feeling of sailing in the free open ocean, and a sense of achievement to arrive on the other end. You never get this experience on passages along the coast or hopping between islands, how long the trip might be.
I am glad we made this final trip.
REVIEW OF OUR 2025 CRUISING SEASON
2025 was unlike the preceding ones, it turned out to be like a continuation of much enjoyed early years. We were lucky with the weather, for much of the time we had suitable, sometimes even ideal conditions for cruising and enjoying the stay on board.
We visited new and attractive destinations, mostly outside the nautical mass tourism and in unspoilt surroundings.
The boat, further to the past works, was a pleasure and performed flawlessly; she needed nothing and did not miss a beat.
We did not know at the time that it would be our last cruising season in Croatia, we had hoped for more in the following year.
In hindsight, it was a fitting finale of our years of boating holidays in Croatia since 2012.
We were finally able to close the "gaps" in our experience in the North Adriatic with visits to the Kvarner islands and to Venice.
Total miles in 2025 were 534 nm, 71 engine hours.
