Croatia 2013 - 2016
BOATING in the EASTERN ADRIATIC SEA:
CROATIA/MONTENEGRO
Seasons 2013 - 2020
OVERVIEW OF OUR ADRIA CRUISING
In the years from 2013 to 2018 we did three trips in each summer, returning home between them; the duration of each stay was about three consecutive weeks.
We got to Piran (Slovenia) in the North, and down to Kotor (Montenegro) in the South, and visited most larger Dalmatian islands, but with the exception of those in the Kvarner region.
From 2019 we were happy to do two trips per season, one in early and one in late summer. This saved on strenous travel and flights and the necessary preparations when leaving the boat. The disastrous Covid year 2020 felt very different, but we were grateful to be able to do two trips. Unfortunately we were not able to use the boat in 2021, but returned from 2022.
>> 2013 Season
June 2013: South Dalmatia and the Bay of Kotor
July 2013: Central Dalmatia: Kornati, Vis, Hvar
August/Sept 2013: Central Dalmatia, Zadar and Sibenik archipelagos, Kornati
>> 2014 Season
June 2014: North Dalmatian Islands and Istrian peninsula to Piran
July 2014: South Dalmatian Islands: Vis, Hvar, Lastovo, Mjlet
Sept 2014: Central Dalmatia: Brac, Makarska, Hvar, Kornati
>> 2015 Season Central & southern islands
>> 2016 Season Central Dalmatia
>> 2017 Season Northern & central islands
>> 2018 Season Central islands
>> 2019 Season Central Dalmatia: Kornati, Sibenik islands, Murter, Solta, Hvar
>> 2020 Season Central Dalmatia: Zut, Zirje, Solta, Hvar
During this summer we use Tarilian from her base in the centre of the Croatian Adriatic coast at Marina Kremik at Primosten, and tour the central and south Dalmatian islands.
The threats of organized large scale tourism and more regulation loom (that's what Croatian officials aim at by being a new part of the EU), but let's hope all the lovely unspoilt small places will remain, where locals make every effort to make your stay as a visiting boater comfortable.
First trip: South Dalmatia and the Bay of Kotor / end of May to mid June 2013
To South Dalmatia; via Korcula and Sipan to Tivat and Kotor in Montenegro.
On the way back we visit Mljet and places in Hvar.
Weather in this early part of the season is not as warm and pleasant as hoped, but there are fine sunny days too.
Spectacular path to St John's fortress above Kotor Old Town.
More mountain than sea, but Tarilian is actually in the photo - on the tiny looking pontoon sticking off the main quay.
A memorable experience for me is my change from being an unnoticeable tourist to a skipper of a vessel wanted by the police which had entered the country illegally from international waters.
Well, view or download the cruise report of this trip:
Around the central Dalmatian islands, including the Kornati, Vis and Hvar.
A usual gamut of bare islands (Katina), coves (Tratinska on Zirje) and old harbours (Milna).
Do I remember anything really unusual about this trip? Not sure (complaints about Captain Bligh, I suppose, are usual, as are unreliable weather forecasts).
Anyway, view or download the cruise report,
This is our longest trip of the season, again in Central Dalmatia.
Through the Zadar and Sibenik archipelagos visiting islands Iz, Dugi Otok and the nature parks Telascica and Kornati (yet again).
It's August and there are many more boats around than on the earlier trips.
During this final journey of the season, the crew shows slightly mutinous notions and expresses a desire for a relaxed 'holiday'. That means our indefatigable skipper shelves his ambitions to reach more distant destinations which require longer motoring hours.
I pick places we liked earlier, as well as new ones, some off the beaten track.
Great Mediterranean high summer weather for much of the time; we experience violent thunderstorms and a formidable windspout.
Jane is a little unwell, and I have invited a friend as a guest for a week (the events are unrelated).
English sailors say, guests on boats are like fish, they start smelling after three days.
So, is it all really about unfortunate events?
In the 2013 season we cruised about 7 weeks, spread over 3 separate turns, and logged a total mileage of 929 nm.
In conclusion, here are a few more impressions from the third turn
In the Kornati islands (Striznja cove)
Evening in the harbour (at Prvic Luka)
Just how I remember passenger ships in Italy as a child ... long live good old Tijat
First trip, BOATING in NORTHERN DALMATIA and ISTRIA, June 2014
In 2014 Tarilian was berthed at marina Frapa, Rogoznica. Frapa is an attractive marina and part of the pretty village of Rogoznica which offers further excellent restaurants.
In early June we venture from our base towards the northern Adriatic, where we have not been yet with this boat.
We are lucky with the weather for almost two weeks. This period of fine weather is followed by rather awful days of rain and storms; anyhow, by that time we had done what we had intended and are back to base.
Our destinations are the picturesque villages and ancient towns of Italianate character along the Istrian peninsula and the old Venetian harbour of Piran in Slovenia.
We are going to find that the Istrian coast is today a highly developed tourism area, with several touristy 'hotspots'.
The relative proximity to Italy, Austria and Germany have made Istria popular for generations of tourists, and it's well worth a visit.
For us boaters, however, the charm of the Dalmatian islands and the variety of destinations they offer, cannot be rivalled.
Pula is a busy town with marine industry and wharfs, as well as important antique sites.
From Pula going northwest along the Istrian coast we arrive at Piran after a couple of days of leisurely cruising in warm sun.
In early July we return to Croatia for a second boating trip of around 2 weeks.
We are a bit nervous about travelling at high season; we are going to revisit some of our usual suspects and to take a brief look to the side here and there where we have not been.
This time we start with Komiza on Vis island, then pay visits to the islands of Hvar, Korcula, Lastovo and Mljet.
In July it is good to know where to escape from the maddening crowds. One of those places is Lastovo.
For our third and final boating trip of the 2014 season we set out on August 29th. It is going to be a mixed bag of weather, which makes us return to base a couple of times, and we also have to do some maintenance work on the boat.
We are going to places not too far from our base at Rogoznica, including Split, Hvar, Brac and the Kornati.
My report contains the usual mix of photos from quaint harbours ... (Tarilian seen here in the port of Zlarin)
... and, by September 18, it's time to go back to base and say good bye to our boating season.
Over our three trips in summer 2014 we spent nearly 8 weeks on the boat, and logged a total of 954 nm.
This season we spend three periods of about 3 weeks on the boat. We re-visit several destinations we liked before, and see some new ones.
The season has a non-promising start, there are delays in the scheduled annual maintenance works including a major motor service. The delay is due to technical problems at the yard, with their crane, our maintenance team at Offshore Boote tells us.
On June 2nd, the day we had intended to start our cruising season, our engines look rather disassembled; it will take one more week to complete the works.
But we are lucky, our contractors, Offshore-Boote, do everything they can do to help, and provide us one of their boats as courtesy yacht so we can go out and make the best of the week. This reduces the issue to just a slight inconvenience.
It's early June and the weather is summerly hot for the time of the year, but Jane and I suffer from an unusual cold which takes several days to clear.
In general, this season is characterized by periods of very hot weather. Even in September we have many days of over 30 deg C. That may sound great to someone who only goes to the beach, but not so much if you want to cruise, when the engines heat the boat up further, and you have to do some work as well. We use our air conditioning system often, but it isn't of help in the nights.
Another unwelcome weather pattern, to us, are periods of southerly wind, the Jugo. For 5 days in September it blows with up to force 6, while the weather at the same time is hot and clear. We do not like going places in strong winds, given the difficult berthing manoeuvres, unsettled nights on buoys and inadequate moorings; not to mention the fact that we have seen much in calm weather before.
A few technical gremlins give us trouble. At one stage the dinghy engine ceases running and needs a repair. The passarella quits moving on another occasion; it's apparently only due to a bad electrical contact, but disruptive unless you know how to fix it.
Some other electronic bits give up their ghost, too, reminding me that electronics and sea water are a bad pairing. The "perfect boats" of glossy sales ads remain a myth, regardless how much you try to keep things up and going.
Enough of talking about doom and gloom, summer 2015 of course offers a lot of pleasure too; we enjoy good boating time and pleasant surprises as well.
Much of our 2015 cruising is similar to earlier trips, so I am not going to prepare reports like in 2013 and 2014.
Anyway, please find more below.
IMPRESSIONS FROM OUR BOATING IN CROATIA 2015
After taking our courtesy yacht to Stupica Vela bay on Zirje and staying a night on a bouy, we make a nostalgic visit to Primosten on June 7th.
All goes well; the mooring helper informs me about a new 'service' where you can call him on his mobile to reserve a place, at a fee. That's handy for the busy harbour in high season, but is that fee not just going into his private pocket?
A nice evening and good dinner as usual, but a little annoyed about some boorish blokes on the next boat who are drunk and moor somewhat erratically.
We visit Lastovo and berth at the Augusta restaurant in Zaklopatica cove. From there we start going round the island anti-clockwise. We find Mali Lago and the island of Prezba a lush scenic enviroment of small wooded islet with deep clear water in between.
After anchoring by Mrcara, and later touring Veli Lago, proceed to the south coast and Skrivena Luka, the "Red Port" respectively cove.
Porto Rosso restaurant provides excellent service.
July 21st, after spending a night on Solta, in the upmarket Martinis-Marchi marina in Maslenica, we anchor in nearby Krknjas cove east of Veli Drvenik. Always a popular anchorage for its turquoise water, in high season it is crowded with trip boats, the nouveau-riche on chartered super-yachts (plus toys), and the rest of us mere mortals displaying an interesting range of anchoring skills.
On Sept 11th, in brilliant late season weather, we re-visit cove Stupica Vela on Zirje island, only 12 nm in a straight course from our base; we have been there already at the start of our season. Enjoy dinner in the simple yet satisfying Konoba. In the evening it's now getting cooler, and there are fewer diners.
The next morning we explore the interesting ruins of the byzantine fortress of the 6th century overlooking the cove.
In summer 2015 we spent nearly 9 weeks in Croatia and logged a total of 700 nm, 89 engine hours.
Average fuel consumption was 3.9 ltrs/nm.
Summary and statistics of our 2016 season
Same as in the previous years, we visit Croatia three times, in June, July and September; each visit is between 2 ½ and 3 weeks long.
Our home berth is still in marina Frapa, Rogoznica, in central Dalmatia. When the weather turns unpleasant, we normally return to our attractive and convenient home port in good time.
1.Trip: We spend 10 out of 20 days cruising* (50%); 5 days are storm or rainy/thundery.
2.Trip: We spend 10 out of 17 days cruising (59%); 3 days are stormy.
3.Trip: We spend 13 out of 21 days cruising (62%); 4-5 days are rainy or thundery.
* 'cruising' means being on a journey / away from our home berth
Total mileage in 2016: 623 nm. Engine hours: 83. Average Diesel consumption: 3.8 ltr/nm
All in all, for us 2016 is a reasonable season weather-wise, with a patch of above average weather in September.
The relatively low fuel consumption shows that most of our cruising was done close to displacement speed (8.5 to 9.5kn).
We start our season with a short turn north towards the Kornati islands, June 4th to 8th.
Fine weather but a bit cool at only 20 to 22 deg C day temperature, the sea is too cold to swim yet. It’s early season. At the Borovnjaci anchorage on Kakan, the small taverna Babalu has just opened the day before.
At Opat we note that the restaurant attracts more large luxury motor yachts, apparently crewed charter yachts. Their nouveau-riche guests are sometimes not the kind of people we find comfortable having around us. The cove is still nice, and the food as fine as we found and enjoyed it in previous years.
After Opat, we spend a couple of happy days in fine weather at the Mare restaurant on Katina. Mare too is popular with motor boaters, but here you usually see friendly and experienced owner operators.
Be aware, that there are problems with mobile network coverage at Katina.
In the second part of our first stay, between June 13th and 15th, the weather has been warming up but is not all that stable. We go south, spend a night in our favourite cove Tiha in the Starigrad channel (Hvar), and the following in Stomorska harbour on Solta, a very pleasant stay this time, with still not too many other yachties and tourists around.
For June 16th and 17th strong SE wind has been forecast. The Jugo blows strongly at Rogoznica, which is located at 43.53 deg N and 15.96 deg E, in the circle on the left side of the diagram.
For a short trip, after the Jugo, we head again for Kaprije and Potkucina cove, and enjoy a sunny afternoon and pleasant evening.
By that time, June 18th, the sea has warmed up enough for a night swim.
In the Borovnjaci buoy field (also referred to as Potkucina cove), be aware that some of the buoys are in a poor condition and rickety.
By the way, the label "Res. Paradiso Tratica" is only an old ad, you can go eating where you want, or not at all.
On the following days temperature is going to drop and rain is coming...
We already have to think about leaving for London.
Sod’s law is alive and kicking; a period of stable summer weather settles in just as we leave.
Our ‘high season’ visit to Croatia starts with properly hot weather at 32 deg C.
A first short trip takes us again to Kakan and the Borovnjaci anchorage. Most of its 60 or so buoys are already taken, but not all boats are there to stay overnight. Once again I find that the buoy we have tied our boat on is broken; the bracket on its bottom has cracked open and the ground rope is just hanging on one end, a huge hazard which you cannot see from above the water.
Cloudless skies, a perfect sunset and a completely calm evening and night.
But, in Croatia, even in July the fine summer weather isn't lasting, the next days bring thundery rain and bora (NE wind).
We make our way to Kremik marina to visit Offshore-Boote. There may be some cross wind but I am not worried as it is a safe place and we are very familiar with the berthing situation. However, I get suddenly distracted by an overzealous helper meddling with our manoeuvre and jumping on deck without being asked; in a momentary lack of concentration I leave the engines in gear while I rush from the fly helm to the aft deck to get control. I realize instantly what’s happening and am fast enough back at the helm to stop the boat. Just in time, but just. A sobering experience that reminds me that accidents always loom, even in a situation you feel you know well.
Sitting out the bora in our home berth at Frapa over the following two days. We watch BBC World and Sky News with shocking reports of the Nice terror attack and later the ‘coup’ attempt in Turkey. As an aftermath of the bora, temperature has dropped to 18 deg C.
In the evening, we go across to the village by dinghy and have dinner at Mario’s Konoba; on the newly designed Riva next door is a concert of “3 Dalmatian tenors”.
In the evening, we go across to the village by dinghy and have dinner at Mario’s Konoba; on the newly designed Riva next door is a concert of “3 Dalmatian tenors”.
July 18th sees the decrease of the NE wind and the return of summer weather.
Our first target is Lucice cove on Brac, and I reserve a table and buoy at the popular restaurant Marino (Smrce), now called Lucice. We arrive at Lucice cove at 16:00 and are guided in by a keen mooring guy in his rib. 300 Kn is charged, although the buoy belongs to our restaurant. The mooring guy offers to take us ashore and back in the evening.
Lucice a lovely bay; we have a skarpina (scorpion fish) for two, and a most romantic table right by the sea.
However, Marino’s prices are inflated, fish is charged 600 kn/kilo, sides and wine are expensive too, without being anything special.
Considering, that the restaurant is a short distance from Milna by road, and they charge extra for the buoy, we find it poor value for money. I hear later that the other two restaurants in Lucice bay have both some issues and are not worth recommending.
For the next night I call Vrboska harbour master but hear they have a flotilla. I reserve a berth on the quay in Starigrad.
I have discovered a potential issue with the Passarella (yet another issue) and am happy that I do not need the tender. On the way across the Hvar Channel towards Starigrad, we pick up a buoy in Tiha cove for lunch and a swim.
As the afternoon commences, a ‘The Yacht Week’ flotilla makes an appearance and starts occupying the whole large north bay, Veli Dolac, of the cove. We are only too happy that we are not staying here.
Starigrad proves overall as pleasant as we had hoped; we stay for two nights. We marvel at the improved old town quay, and the works to extend quays on the north side of the harbour to provide additional yacht berths. There may be some temporary safety hazards to pedestrians here and there, but so it be; H&S doctrine has not yet replaced reliance on common sense.
The spell of wonderful summer weather continues; Thursday night we stay on a buoy in nearby Tiha cove (having made sure there is no flotilla) and Friday 22nd we go to the Palmizana marina (Hvar) to re-visit one of the excellent restaurants of Sveti Klement.
On Fridays and Saturdays this popular marina usually has spaces because charter yachts are away, but the rest of the week it is fully booked despite its nowadays very expensive prices. Euros 143 per day for a boat like Tarilian, plus an extra rip-off reservation fee if you book online; I feel that an extra booking fee, combined with requiring full upfront payment, is unreasonable and must be abolished. Hvar town has managed to become the hectic epicentre of Croatian island tourism and is priced accordingly. In addition to tourist marketing, millions of reviewers seem to have "discovered" it and raved about it in social media. The town has become a seasonal tourist folly, and is empty outside the season.
An alternative to the ACI marina is the Vinogradisce cove on the opposite, south, side of Sveti Klement, which has nowadays got a "high-density" field of buoys; pricey too as you might have guessed.
Saturday July 23rd. For this night we try to re-visit Stomorska on Solta, but alas when we arrive at 15:35, though plenty of spaces are available, we are told the harbour was “fully booked”. I am angry; someone can book a whole harbour for their flotilla, and private boats that arrive first get turned away. I hear the same happened to a friend on a previous day.
It’s the second time we experience this within a few days. It must be the sign of times in high season Croatia; ever increasing flotillas, run by mercenary skippers with 'connections' (other word for corruption) who elbow out individual yachting. It reminds me of the unfair treatment we experienced in Komiza harbour some time ago, where the harbour office lied to us saying that they would not accept bookings (except in 'special' cases, we found).
I call Milna ACI marina, an old haunt of ours; they have space; we berth in a more godly place, by the church with its lovely loud bells.
From Sunday July 24th the weather is expected to deteriorate, with wind starting late afternoon; but the morning is bright and calm.
On the way towards Frapa we anchor at Krknjas (Drvenik V.) at 12:00 for lunch. The beautiful anchorage is in season a restless place of yachts coming and leaving, but I usually get a space in the deeper, not so "blue lagoon"-coloured part.
We leave the anchorage at 13:00, the NW wind has got up. In the passage between the Drvenik islands and the mainland the NW wind blows like in a funnel, it has a long reach from the open sea and can whip up chop.
Half way through towards Rt Ploce (Punta Planka), east of the Arkandel island, I decide that the gusting head wind is putting unacceptable stress on the bimini and I need to fold it back; not easily done in such conditions. Near to Rt Ploce the waves increase to 1.5m; much earlier than expected. A couple of steep waves brake right before our bow and send water over the flybridge. Arrive Frapa at 2:30pm.
The next morning I have the passarella taken off and the bracket inspected; the bolts are not broken as I had feared. They put it back on, Sika-flexed and with new doubled up nuts. It's not a very strong construction, but hopefully will last for the time being until I get a more solid bracket custom-made.
Part 3 - Third Trip Sept 1-20
The weather is fine and summerly. It seems to become our habit to do a first short trip to Kakan and moor at the Borovnjaci anchorage. All is nice there as usual; the buoy guy already recognizes our boat. Night is mild at 23deg C, but getting a little damp and dewy.
Sept 2nd, Friday we continue NW to re-visit marina Piskera, where we had last been in 2004.
Mooring with the stern against the afternoon wind is no problem.
In this area the T-Com network coverage provides only for voice calls, data does not work; on the VIP network we get data. The problem with T-Com is confirmed the next day by the marina office.
I had read bad environmental comments, but to me the Piskera seems still ok; fish, sea grass and urchins seem going.
It’s Friday, and so no charter yachts. The pontoons are empty, it feels lonely. The whole place is a magical setting between rocky white islets, just as we remember it.
Next day we make our way back SE, under gloriously blue skies. We stop at Tratinska cove on Zirje, a beautiful cove with solid mooring buoys to stay overnight, and a simple restaurant. The buoy operator isn’t busy. Talking about immigration he tells us how much Croatians would hate Muslim immigrants. Furthermore, that it "has already been pre-determined that Trump will win over Clinton". Ah!
We stay in the bay until next afternoon, then return to our home berth.
On Sept 7th Jane’s daughter PK arrives in the afternoon.
Sept 8th. With a forecast for mostly clear settled weather, we start a trip south. We try, first time for us, Bobovisce cove on Brac, north of Milna; an easy day trip of 27.5 nm.
En route we stop at Krknjas (Drvenik Veli), our pleasant and convenient (albeit busy) lunchtime anchorage. At Bobovisce, there is a space at the very end of yacht quay. The docking manoeuvre looks a bit chaotic at first, because the mooring helper hands over a far too short mooring line, then one which runs even in a ‘wrong’ direction; with lack of a suitable bollard ashore I have to rig a longer landline across small boats to stay safe. I fix the short lines to suitable forward side cleats rather than to the bow, rearrange ropes and we eventually get all secured.
In addition to the moorings on the quay there is a row of buoys on the opposite side of the cove, with landlines to tie up ashore. If I have a choice, however, I always prefer moorings where I can get ashore directly without needing a dinghy.
Bobovisce is a nice and picturesque village in a narrow cove with steep slopes up on the sides. There are quaint old stone houses, which remind me of pretty harbours such as Zlarin, Vrboska or Stomorska. But, here is also a little viewing tower, maybe from a derelict fortification, overlooking the cove. We will climb up the next morning and enjoy the views.
Have dinner in one of the quayside restaurants, on a table inside as the evening gets cooler; quite pleased, and value for money.
Sept 9th, Friday we continue our journey and tie up on a buoy in Tiha cove in the Starigrad channel. For dinner we visit the new simple grill in the north cove, a useful addition to this beautiful bay where food had been unavailable.
Saturday morning in the bay, swimming, paddling and watching wildlife, then move to Starigrad town, our favourite harbour on Hvar. Moor up on the newly built up north quay. It is quieter than the town quay opposite side, but the walk to the harbour office, all round the harbour, takes about 20 minutes (each way), be aware.
We are in for a treat tonight, there are celebrations of “2400 Years Starigrad”, including a gathering and parade of vintage boats.
By the way, the feast in town does not mean that all restaurants are full; locals go out eating far less than foreigners.
Our next trip from Frapa is in northerly direction to the Sibenik islands, just 17nm to go, in calm and stable weather. Yet again we go on a buoy in Potkucina cove (Borovnjaci anchorage) on Kakan. The large bay is not empty but there are many buoys left, a sign of late season. Dinner at Babalu grill, a nice and quiet September evening, still pleasantly warm.
The following day, Sept 13th, still in sunny weather, we re-visit nearby Stupica Vela cove on Zirje, and its simple but good restaurant run by the Old Ladies.
Buoys here are in a better state and more secure than at Borovnjaci. But, be aware, if you have a long boat, a few of them are quite close together.
In the afternoon we walk the short path up to the picturesque ruins of the Roman fortification with its splendid views. Another beautiful sunset and a quiet night ensue.
The following morning is completely calm, but, with a large patch of sea fog covering the cove and creating an unusual autumn light and mood at the anchorage. By 10:00 the sun starts comes through and slowly dissolving the fog.
We leave the anchorage at 11:00, visibility is still less than 1nm. Half an hour later the fog has dissolved further and visibility increased to 4nm. Berth at Frapa by 13:00, later in the afternoon PK takes a taxi to Split airport.
After this period of stable weather a low has passed over us. By Sept 20th it has been filling and the weather clears; still NW wind but reducing and only light in the night. A final short trip to the popular Sesula cove on Solta, a place we have only seen from afar before. I have booked restaurant Sismis, who reserve buoys for their customers. We get there by 16:00. The cove is narrow and deep; assisted by friendly mooring helpers we tie the bow to a mooring rope, and rig a landline at the stern which, in our case, attaches to a small chain. This chain is on a bracket cemented into a crack on the rocky shore.
The position of the restaurant and the views over the cove could not be nicer, the food is good too. We are just disappointed how early the sun sets at this time of the year, just before 19:00. With the darkness comes a drop in temperature and increase in humidity, eating outside becomes less comfortable. Around this time in September one should go to dine outdoors by 18:00 at the latest.
The following day we return to Frapa in calm and bright weather, refuel the boat and prepare to leave. Flights to Gatwick in the early evening bring our summer 2016 season to a conclusion.
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