Back in time: My boating experiences as a beginner, and moving on to year 2000
A first adventure at sea, in former Yugoslavia
>> Croatia motor boat charter in June 1991
My attempts at nautical activities and progress in the following years, making a fresh start in the UK
>> Notes about my boating activities up to 2000
The first charter trip in Post-war Croatia, 2000
PREAMBLE
I was living in Vienna and had started getting interested in sailing and boats around 1988. Anne and I had been to Dalmatia on a land-based holiday on Hvar and Korcula in summer 1990, and liked it a lot. We rented a dinghy with an outboard engine for an afternoon, and loved being on the water.
I had been talking to two friendly colleagues from my lab, who had done a couple of trips on chartered small motor boats in Croatia and were fond of them. The plan for our first trip was to join them on a week's cruise in June. They chartered a boat to suit the four of us. I knew very little about motor boats at the time.
The boats offered by Sunturist were displacement cruisers produced by local yards. The smaller ones were basic in today's view but practical and easy to use; their naturally aspired inboard Diesel engines chug along reliably.
Unfortunately our friends backed out closer to the start date due to worrying news in the media about the risk of an impending war in Yugoslavia.
Anyhow, I was feeling more optimistic and adventurous, and we were keen to proceed on our own.
I had obtained a Croatian boat's leaders license of competency ("Küstenpatent") in 1988. This paper allowed the holder to take out a yacht in Croatia of any size and engine "regardless of its intention with exception of ships for earning purposes". It had been easy enough to obtain such a license with schools in Vienna. I remember the classroom course prepared us well for the paper exam in Croatia, but did not include any practical training.
The "practical exam" required the candidates to row a punt a few meters on stagnant water on a river. That was in Sisak, no sea, no yachts anywhere. All candidates passed and returned home as new captains.
The responsibility for their yacht, and to have obtained adequate relevant experience, lies with the skipper.
Back to June 1991. My colleague had booked a boat for four, we were now only two, and no one sharing costs. To save some money, we want to change the booking to a slightly smaller model. We take again a look into the Sunturist brochure.
We are happy to go for an 8m model; it should do the same for us at a lower price. A Donat 800 with 2+2 berths layout seems nice enough; we are looking forward.
It's the first time I'm in charge of a boat and I want to prepare myself perfectly: I review boat course notes, and then quiz a colleague who is an experienced sailor with endless questions about cruising in Dalmatia.
Motor Cruise, 22 – 28 June 1991, from Zadar to its archipelago
Itinerary: Zadar - Kukljica (Ugljan) - Telascica (Dugi Otok) - Iz Veli (Iz) - Bozava (Dugi Otok) - Veli Rat (Dugi Otok) - Zadar.
An eager but flawed first motor boat trip at the outbreak of the Yugoslav Wars.
NOTE: This is the only cruise report on my website which wasn't drafted at the time but many years later, with hindsight. Some details had to be reconstructed from memory.
Boat: Donat motor cruiser, length about 8 meters, displacement hull, single inboard diesel engine on shaft drive
Charter operator: “Sunturist” Jugoslavia, booked via agency Krisa GesmbH (Vienna)
Crew: Willi and Anne
June 21, Friday. Journey by car from Vienna to Zadar
Our boat is based in Marina Borik near Zadar.
June 22, Saturday. Marina Borik. Zadar to Ugljan / Pasman passage
Beautiful clear skies and calm weather, a good day for taking the boat over and casting off.
We go through the handover procedure, which is completed without problems.
Instead of an electric fridge the boat has got an ice box. Handled with care this turns out to be practical and efficient, and has got the huge advantage of not running the battery down and making noise. The heads seems to be a "marinized" domestic toilet arranged as a ship's toilet, but it works. The discharge is direct to sea. All on the boat seems simple but is working and adequate for beginners and a week's holiday.
Then - as we get ready and try to leave berth first time - a nuisance mooring rope gets in our way. It's caught in the prop, oh dear, the boat is hanging on it helplessly; that's an embarrassing start. I had not looked out properly. A diver is called to free the prop, and I pay the fee.
Finally set free we get out of the marina and head south across the Zadar channel.
The boat’s diesel engine appears to run reliably but is quite noisy.
After cruising along at 7 knots for an hour or so we arrive at the Zdrelac passage,
between the islands of Ugljan and Pasman.
Our plan is to anchor in the wide and protected passage, and stay for the night.
It’s our first anchor manoeuvre, and I am anxious to get it right. The ground is said to be stony in places.
There are only few boats and I anchor near a trawler yacht, and later have a few words with the owner who appears to be an experienced captain.
Anyhow, I’m still a bit nervous about the holding of the anchor; but the night is perfectly calm and no problems arise.
June 23, Sunday. To Sali / Dugi Otok, and on to Telascica and Mir cove
A sunny and calm day rises. It's Anne's birthday, but we aren't making a big fuss of it.
We motor straight across the channel towards the island Dugi Otok (Long Island), and have a look around Sali harbour. The place has not stayed in my memory.
Then we continue towards Katina island, to take the shallow passage between it and Kornat island; this is the entrance to the Kornati area; we turn north towards Telascica bay on Dugi Otok, today's target.
Helmsman at work.
It's traditional chart and compass navigation and steering by hand; at that time, on a boat like this, there are no navigation electronics, but there is at least a depth sounder.
The passage we have to use is Vela Proversa ('Large Proversa' passage). The more direct route via Mala Proversa, the 'Small Proversa' passage on the north side of Katina island, which is available today (and deeper), had not yet been blasted open to allow navigation.
In its shallowest part the Vela Proversa passage is said to be only 1.9m deep. Navigating the leading line through the passage is a thrilling experience for the beginner because you are aware that there are hard rocks in the shallower parts on both sides.
Once in Telascica, we have the beautiful bay almost to ourselves, and drive up to its head. Then back to Mir cove, where we tie up alongside the public pier for the night.
There are only one or two other boats. The quiet experience of nature is truly beautiful, we enjoy the stay.
In our days, Telascica Nature park with its salt lake has long become a victim of its attractiveness, it's a busy tourists' hotspot. Entrance fees are charged and in season numerous trip boats brings hundreds of day tourists from coastal towns and holiday resorts. Multiple rows of mooring buoys accommodate visiting yachts.
The adjoining Kornati Nature park has experienced a similar fate, become a pay zone and being relentlessly marketed for mass tourism.
June 24, Monday. From the Telascica to Veli Iz
'Mir' means 'peace' and a peaceful haven it might be, but note the military guard vessel in the background.
Leaving Telascica we have to go through Vela Proversa passage again, going east.
Once past Katina, we turn northwest and motor towards the
island of Iz leaving Lavdara to port.
We have chosen the small marina at Veli Iz to stay for the night.
Our first harbour manoeuvre proves to be very tricky, despite calm weather conditions.
The boat has got a single prop on a shaft drive, and, of course, no bow thruster. I read about prop walk but have to find that script theory does not help much when trying to handle the actual boat in a real situation in a harbour.
Furthermore, the engine noise in the wheelhouse is so intense, that I have no chance to understand what Anne, who is outside on the front deck, desperately tries to tell me, nor can I hear the gesticulating helper/marinaio ashore.
I keep messing up the docking manoeuvre, acting like a pigheaded deaf idiot in his wheelhouse.
Up to then I had really believed that learn about something from a paper would give you skills; my practical experience at that time was limited to steering a dinghy with an outboard engine a couple of times.
Eventually the boat gets into its berthing position, still undamaged, and is tied up.
We get chatting to one of the people who helped, the friendly skipper of a Bavarian sailing yacht. He is cruising with two friends who are co-owners of the boat. I feel I need to talk to him about the mess I made of berthing. Of course, I blame it all on the primitive boat and its terrible prop walk. I am only too pleased when he shows empathy; oh no, no, it wasn't my fault, he probably could not have done much better himself... how sweet that sounds to me.
It is our first island harbour, and the boat is tied up safely. In the evening we go out to Iz village together with our new friends to have dinner. It's going to be a jolly good evening, and the local wine is tasty and plentiful. Finally getting back to the boat I go to bed and fall asleep instantly.
Later that night Anne has an accident when leaving the boat to go to the toilet block: She slips off the passarella, and falls down between the boat and the sharp-edged quay wall. Her leg gets wounded badly.
The Bavarian skipper is still around, notices her and is ready to help. He finds the doctor’s house and helps her to the doctor who attends to the wound. It needs stitching and dressing.
"Wilhelm keeps asleep during all that time despite attempts to wake him, like comatose”, I am told the next morning.
I feel very sorry about Anne's accident, but do not see a fault on my side, not even for being unable to help. My view is, that my duty as helmsman had ended as soon as the boat was tied up on the mooring, and, that all adults on board needed to look after themselves in the end.
That was a regrettable mistake by someone ignorant about skippering a boat; I had denied my responsibility as the boat's leader. A skipper's role is by no means limited to helming the boat, they are in charge of the safety and wellbeing of their crew and boat at all times, whether under way or docked. Being unfit to help when an incident happens is careless behaviour.
I'll try to analyse, in hindsight, what might have contributed to the accident happening, apart from booze and tiredness. There was high pressure weather and a clear sky. During the night the sea level may have fallen by 30 to 40 cm as effect of tide and an increase in air pressure. As a consequence the boat may have moved down, its distance and height from the stone quay changed. Quite possibly getting ashore and back on deck got more hazardous, as the strange swivelling 'ladder style' gangway (as seen in photos) would have changed angle; but a novice might have overlocked such risks at night without being pre-warned.
Never believe silly stereotypes like 'there are no tides in the Med'.
25.6. Tuesday. Bozava (Dugi Otok)
Another lovely bright and calm day rises.
As soon as matters are settled with Iz Veli marina, we are ready to sail towards the harbour Bozava in the northern part of Dugi Otok, together with the Bavarian sailors who recommended the harbour, only 11nm to go.
Anne has to take it easy, she must be careful not to let her leg with the bandage get wet.
Bozava is quiet and laid back. It proves another pleasant place. The unstable political situation is doing its own to scare away tourists.
After berthing, we have beers in the harbour side Konoba right by the pier.
To left: The particularly 'Mediterranean' feeling, relaxing under pine trees on a fine calm day is going to be a lasting memory
Below: Bozava harbour pier.
Evening is setting in and we are getting ready to go for dinner into the village.
26.6. Wednesday. Pantera bay and Veli Rat
We say au revoir to the Bavarians, and move on towards the north tip of Dugi Otok.
Across the impressing large Pantera bay, then passing Veli Rat into the sheltered shallow Cuna cove.
A restaurant jetty in Veli Rat/Cuna cove invites for an overnight stay. Even for a small boat like ours, the water depth is low at this jetty.
Over night the water level sinks further, the boat seems to slighlty touch ground in early morning.
Anyhow, the bottom is mud, so it does not cause any problem, and we re-float happily once the water rises.
27.6. Thursday. The threat of war is looming large - going back to the base
On my portable multi-band radio we hear news about military movements and boarder closings between Croatia and Slovenia. The war seems to be closing in, just what we had hoped would not happen so soon.
We do not want to get stuck in the car en route in Croatia or Slovenia, or to be on a road together with tanks and soldiers. So we decide to return to our charter base on the same day rather than Friday.
We intend to get ready to leave from Zadar the following morning, one day before the actual end of our charter.
So we motor back all the way, past the northwest tips of islands Tun and Sestrunj towards Ugljan and then across the channel to Zadar, and berth in our home Marina Borik.
Back at marina Borik
28.6. Friday. Getting out of the way of war: Ferry Zadar – Venice
The most convenient way to escape trouble and even get a pleasant end of the holiday, seems to take a car ferry over to Italy.
We book the Jadrolinija service from Zadar to Venice and have another beautiful time at sea - of a different kind of sailing.
Surprisingly, in hindsight, there is no problem getting tickets for this service.
29.6. Saturday. Venice and return to Vienna
Arriving in Venice is always a nice experience.
From here we can drive back to Vienna easily.
Boat charter price (1991): ATS 8600 (Euro 627)
Ferry Zadar -Venice: 2 passengers 1400 Kn (Euro 184), car (Ford Sierra) 1230 Kn (Euro 161)
In summary, we spent one week in calm and stable weather under the sun, surrounded by beautiful nature on islands, and have been to nice coves and pleasant small harbours. Together with the friendliness of the local people and modest prices, we had a good experience. The threat of war seems to have deterred many tourists and boaters, under normal circumstances it might have been much busier.
This was our first holiday trip on a chartered motor boat. In hindsight. My lack of understanding of my responsibilities as skipper, and lack of essential practical experience before taking out a boat were not only regrettable but had contributed to avoidable injury of crew.
It could have been more difficult if we had not had brilliantly calm weather - which we took for granted at the time.
NOTES ABOUT MY NAUTICAL ACTIVITIES AND EXPERIENCES DURING THE FOLLOWING YEARS TO 2000
In spring 1992, when I still lived in Vienna, I obtain a license for motor boats up to 10m on inland water ways and the river Danube, which allows me to drive a rib which I co-own with a friend; but experiences are not exciting and it gets only rarely used.
I am sadly not someone who was born with 'sea legs' and I am not much of a sportsman; but I keep up my interest in coastal sailing and start a course in Vienna with a well known sailing school, Hofbauer. The theory part goes without a problem, but I have a frustrating experience on a practice training turn in Croatia in October 1992.
We are on an a crowded 47 ft yacht with 10 other trainees, led by an instructor who seems to be a much greater sailor than coach. He is co-owner of that vessel - an unfortunate constellation. I remember him shouting at a trainee, apparently worried that harm could be done to his precious investment. I might be too shy, but I try to avoid doing many tasks on his yacht rather than learning and practising them. I feel like being under an authoritarian teacher at grammar school.
We are starting out of Portoroz. Mr Sponger's decision to cross the Kvarner Bay in Bora weather turns out a sickening experience (literally!) to many of us. it's the first time in my life I fall seasick, and it terrifies me. The "Kvarner crossing" shall remain a traumatic experience for me for many years.
The deterrent experiences of this trip make me loose further confidence in my yachting abilities rather than gain any.
In August 1993 I join two friends of a friend on a sailing turn over two weeks through the northern Dalmatian islands. They own a 33ft (10m) yacht based in Pula, and turn out to be nice guys and bold, but rather care-free, sailors. I like several aspects of the trip, but am not proficient in being crew and not much of an asset on board; I am quite uncomfortable facing the numerous 'challenges' that keep arising daily during this trip. I start taking it for granted, that various sorts of unfortunate incidents, unforeseen weather hazards and near accidents are what yachting is all about, and are unavoidable. Would I ever be able to learn to master those if I was in charge?
I also realize that they are very sporting whilst I am not. They are keen to race the yacht all day clocking up large numbers of miles, even find pleasure in messing with the spinnaker which I view as rather pointless. Am I really the right person to be on a yacht?
In summer 1994 I move to England, and, for a while, loose focus on sailing; I miss deadlines to complete my Austrian license.
Anyhow, in May 1996 I am offered the opportunity to join a two weeks' sailing trip through the Cycladic Islands on a 41ft (12.5m) yacht with friends from Vienna: We are five calm guys on a comfortable yacht. This time it's about cruising and exploring interesting sites; I have got good memories of this trip, and a
set of videos.
I also participate in a couple of sailing weekends on the English South coast with business friends, which go well.
Those positive experiences rekindle my desire to get involved with nautical matters again. I still like boats and love to be on the water. I have learned that there is no fast track, and, that I hate being non-confident crew. I decide to turn the page, and take up the
RYA sail training scheme from scratch.
Still in 1996, I enrol in a remote learning course and book practical training weekends in Southampton. Those are on smaller yachts, maximum 4 trainees to 1 coach who is one of us not one of them. To me, this brings about the 'turn of the tide'; in Atlantic waters off the English south coast sailing is a down-to-earth activity, no unnecessary school stress and unnerving authoritarian style.
I start feeling comfortable with taking on jobs at hand on a yacht, start being at ease and enjoying it, even on a simple yacht in British late autumn weather. Calculating an ETA becomes a point when you need to know whether you'll make it to the last orders.
In 1998 I do a practical sail training course out of Gibraltar.
In the same year we move to a house in Kew on the tidal river Thames with a pontoon nearby; a neighbour has got a small boat there. Talking to them the desire to have one too emerges; I get Jane interested and buy our first motor cruiser, a used Sealine 255 Senator (26ft/ 8m) named 'Ocean Mist'. The dealers at Windsor could not have been more friendly and helpful. Slowly I am getting to grips with handling a twin outdrive motor boat. She is moored at Kew and we use her for trips up and down the Thames.
Later, in 2000, when we have the small boat taken to the South coast and it reveals its severe limitations in sea conditions, I replace Ocean Mist immediately with a larger more seaworthy craft, a 33ft (10m) Fairline Targa 30, with twin AD41 turbo diesels. I name her 'Ileana' after one of my favourite opera singers. She is kept in Southampton and we cruise the Solent and beyond to Devon. There is no way back, the boating bug has bitten.
Fast forward to 2000. In April Jane and I take up a week's RYA practical motor yacht training in Gomera/Canary islands, for me to extend my coastal skipper license for sail boats to motor, and for Jane to acquire competent crew skills. With a relaxed mature skipper instructor on a private charter yacht, under unusual and extremely stormy weather conditions, this is valuable training and experience.
I convince Jane who has never been to Croatia, that Dalmatia is quite different from the Canaries and a nice cruising ground.
In June 2000 we embark on our first charter turn in post-war Croatia. I am still in my early days of Med experience, and am exploring. But I am not a novice to yachting any longer. There is still a way to go before we will be confident in handling the different situations in the Med and be sure which type of boat suits us best. But we know what we are doing, are well and safe, and are enjoying the journey.
On this first trip in Croatia we are getting amazed and charmed as we visit the most beautiful and scenic places with complete ease, and can relax in peace and glorious weather.
If the last sentence sounds like raving about 'Golden Old Days' in Croatia, that is intended: Back in the early 2000s was the perfect time to enjoy boating in Croatia.
Dalmatia had for decades been the favourite 'home' cruising ground for Austrian and German sailors, but was only just about to start attracting international attention as a yachting destination in 2000; all its unique and pristine features were on offer, a full nautical infrastructure had been developed and was welcoming yachtsmen. All that nature, history and hospitality have to offer, was available, but none of the undesirable ramifications of tourism development was seen. No oversized charter fleets, noisy drink and drug party crews, overcrowded harbours and marinas, busy buoy fields in every former anchor bay, mass flotillas run by international holiday operators, year on year price hikes and new charges. Those disruptive consequences of greed and over-development in today's Croatia were not even thinkable in 2000.
The trip of 2000 will mark the start of a series of annual Croatia charter trips, where we will be trying out different types of motor yachts always looking for good value and what suit us.
This experience will ultimately help us make informed decisions when time comes to think about getting our own boat for the Med.
RETURNING TO CROATIA FIRST TIME AFTER THE YUGOSLAV WAR
CROATIA CHARTER TRIP June 17th - 24th, 2000
ITINERARY Marina Kremik/Primosten - Milna (Brac island) - Bol - Starigrad (Hvar island) - Lovcisce (Scedro island) - Korcula town (Korcula island) - Soline/Sv Clement (Hvar archipelago) - Palmizana marina - Hvar town - Milna - Necujam bay (Solta island) - Primosten - Kremik.
Boat: "Red Lobster", Bayliner 2755 (ca.8.5m), single Mercruiser petrol engine on stern drive
Crew: Wilhelm, Jane
Total mileage: 206 nm (32 - 24 - 50 - 48 - 52 nm)
Preamble: I have read a favourable report in a German yachting magazine about an Austrian motor boat charter company, Offshore Boote, in Marina Kremik, who offers a 34 feet twin diesel engines sports cruiser, which is similar to my own boat in England at that time. Unfortunately the boat isn't available in the week we want to book, and I am not interested in one of their larger and more expensive fly-bridge yachts, which I consider oversized for us two.
They refer us to a smaller operator in the same marina, Kremik, who has and cheaper motor boats available. I decide to give it a try and go for it; but I am soon going to realize that the rules here are not different from anywhere else in the commercial world: You get what you pay for. That might not always be what you imagined, especially when it's your first time.
Saturday June 17th. Getting out with a late start
Our Croatian Airlines flight from Heathrow to Split scheduled for 4.40 pm is not ready due to problems with BA's main computer system. Already on the airport, we turn back home, and later, after struggling to get up to date information, get to the airport at 10pm. The flight finally takes off by 11:30 pm and arrives at Split at 3 am local time on Sunday!
Luckily, our taxi driver at Split has been monitoring flight arrivals and is spot on to greet us even at this unearthly hour; we arrive at Kremik marina 3:45 am, find our boat “My Silvi”, and finally go to sleep at 5am.
M/Y Silvi is an older Sea Ray 268 sports cruiser with twin petrol engines. It looks a bit tired and its green hull has faded in the sun, but it has an outstanding feature that can rival any gin palace: Its sheer number of cup holders dotted all around the deck.
Sunday June 18th. First day, and more difficulties
We get up a bit later to recover from the travel stress. Sort out paper work with the charter man and try to get the food shopping done. Part of our list is still missing but by that time the store is closed and will reopen Monday morning.
Next step is to familiarise ourselves properly with the great grand yacht.
Weather seems to get a bit windy, and outside at sea white horses are seen. Yes, confirms our charter operator, when wind gets up like this the sea is "no place for small boats, they quickly huddle up in harbour. Only big guys can still go". Listening to the wise man we decide to stay in the marina this night, and to get all necessary shopping done next morning, and start from there.
Later in the afternoon we check out My Silvi and find that the controls on one of the engines are tricky; the engine cuts out when changing gear from forward to neutral or reverse. Having experienced awry mooring manoeuvres myself, I am very worried what might be coming towards me. I ask the owner/charter operator, he is unable to sort out the problem but promises a mechanic friend will be available Monday morning.
We have a pleasant dinner at the Kremik marina restaurant.
Mon June 19th. First day at sea, finally.
Unfortunately the gear/throttle problem cannot be resolved, so I ask if there is a replacement boat available; we are offered "Red Lobster", a similar sized Bayliner (2755), of a friend of his. It is a planing boat as well, but with a single large Mercruiser petrol engine; it needs to be prepared first, they say.
A single engine is of course not ideal, but its different layout offers sufficient space for us both, and it looks a little newer, so I agree.
Finally, we set off at lunch time.
Jane has bought us the brand new 'Navigational Guide to the Adriatic, Croatian Coast' (2000), in the English language and with nice photos and plenty of information. I believe it is the first guide of its kind in the English language, for an area which is mainly covered by German and Italian publications catering to the majority customers.
We set route for Milna harbour/marina on Brac. Some wind is coming from the west, but it is from the aft quarter and so our cruise is fine.
On route we stop and anchor in a bay on Solta for a swim, which is great; but it appears that our anchor is not holding well.
Soon we continue on the short leg to
Milna (island Brac).
By that time the boat's GPS has given up its ghost, so I can put my small hand held unit, which I wisely brought with me, to good use.
Mooring up in ACI marina Milna turns out to be a bit of an experience, due to an awkward to reach berth (at least that's what I think at the time!) with an unfamiliar single engined boat which shows a strong prop effect going astern, so the manoeuvre takes us close to the moorings of local fishing boats. Add to this a shouting and gesticulating marinaio who seems unable to imagine that there could be anyone on the water who is not intimately familiar with their Mediterranean way of mooring. (That unpleasant practise of picking up and pulling the boat with a muddy slimy dripping rope which is fixed on the sea bed somewhere in the middle of the harbour).
After tying up safely without having had any collision we relax with a drink and enjoy the lovely and picturesque old fishing harbour of Milna with its excellent new marina.
Jane logs "I think the main problem is this strange method of mooring stern to shore with a light pick up rope on a bigger mooring rope and chain in the front - very peculiar".
Shortly later I decide to try starting the engine up again, just as a test. This doesn't go well; not only does the engine refuse to fire, the noise and bleeping sound in the tranquil atmosphere around us are quite annoying, so I decide to face the problem if it occurs again, on the next morning.
Leaving the boat, we have to find that the cabin lock has got a problem, but decide to ignore it - why worry, there are only honest people around us for sure…
We sit down for a wonderful fresh fish dinner in the old part of the harbour, which can be fairly described as of film set quality - just ancient and quaint, and without annoying signs of tourism as we find them in countries further west.
We wonder about the economy and the level of income of the locals... anyhow, after several glasses of wine we amble back to the boat.
Alarmingly to those who believe that in the “non-tidal” Med the sea level is constant at all times, the water and with it the passarella, has dropped by about a foot - "we must say we hate those things", but get back on board and bed down for the night.
Tuesday June 20th A dodgy engine and Jane’s birthday gets overlooked
Today is Jane's birthday but the self-absorbed distraught skipper appears to be oblivious to this most important date in the annual calender (!) … anyway, Jane waits patiently without saying anything. And, it's a wonderful morning in fabulous surroundings. Fishing boats depart around 2 to 3am, sailing yachts around 6am, and church bells authoritatively demand attention at 7am; a very nice looking very old church it is indeed, and has got very loud bells, too.
Navigator Jane plots today's route
We shower, have breakfast and are underway by 11:30 am.
Jane has plotted the route along the South coast of Brac to visit Bol, and then on to a large anchor bay in the Starigradski canal, on the NW coast of Hvar. It is one of the arms of the Tiha cove.
We anchor successfully in the Tiha cove (on the 2nd attempt), and have some lunch.
Time in the sunny afternoon is spent studying and rowing about in the dinghy, and sun bathing.
By 5 pm we feel ready to leave the lovely quiet bay and head for Palmizana marina/Hvar for the night.
But fate is not with this plan of ours; we appear to have developed an engine problem; no way to get the monster up and running. Suspecting a mere carburettor flooding I wait a while and try again, but without luck. Call the owner, he suggests tricks we have already tried. Final suggestion is to rig the dinghy's tiny outboard engine and try to slowly get to Starigrad, 3-4 miles away. No problem as the weather is calm.
Anyhow, we are less than delighted, and ask the sailing yacht which is anchored next to us, whether they were going to Starigrad and maybe could give us a tow… they decline, explaining that they are anchored for the night. We get underway, probably making about 1kn.
After only a short distance of struggling we see the yacht, called Moonraker, coming towards us to assist us - they must have watched us and taken pity. Excellent sailors and great seamen, thank goodness.
Willi is of course furious with the owner to have let us get into this situation, probably through skimpy engine maintenance. Anyhow, we are towed to Starigrad, and the kind captain of Moonraker collects his tow line. We shout a big thanks and ask what we can give them in return; the answer is a bottle of gin would be welcome. They leave and we buy a bottle later, in the hope we may catch up with them soon.
Powerless in a power boat we get roped along by some kind yachties and end up alongside the pier at the harbour entrance.
Later on Willi tries the engine again, after a call from the owner giving another “trick“ to try and - guess what- it starts. Thank god we hadn't tried this in the presence of our selfless rescuers, what an embarrassment would this have been.
The skipper is now in a slightly gloomy mood which isn't much lightened by encouraging comments from Jane, who infers he may have forgotten that it was the 20th and her birthday … Anyhow, we have a lovely meal in a family run restaurant and, after all, finish Jane's birthday happily.
Wed June 21st Towards the South and Korcula.
After a good peaceful night we manage to slip away from the quay without paying any harbour fees; we had been moored next to some commercial craft, yachts usually go further inside to the yachting quay.
The engine seems to be ok so there is no need for a mechanic. Once out of the Starigrad channel we discharge our holding tank which got full - I wonder whether that could have been all ours.
Head for Sveti Clement and Palmizana marina, and do a harbour tour in nearby Hvar town - really a nice old town and very nice harbour.
Seas are flat so we press on and have a smooth ride to Lovisce cove on Scedro island. Stop and anchor in SE bay, for a swim, then change to E bay and see a restaurant that had been mentioned in David’s log.
Leave and drive on towards the Korcula channel and Korcula town, with some SW wind in the channel.
Approaching Korcula Old Town from the West on a sunny afternoon is a very special sight for any mariner. Even more so, when it's your first time and you are practically the only boat around.
Moor up in Korcula town marina (ACI), east of old town, this time without any hiccups - happy bunnies!
Have a drink on board in very hot sun, before getting ready to explore the town before dinner.
Lovely medieval Old Town, cleverly laid out to protect against the northerly Bora but allowing the mild SW Mistral to waft through. After visiting the (purported) house of Marco Polo, the local hero, enjoying great views from the top, we have a very good dinner at characterful restaurant Addio Mare.
Have coffees and digestives in a quite grand looking hotel on the west harbour front, watching a beautiful sunset. Back on board for a candle lit nightcap and a good rest.
Thursday June 22nd Time to start moving towards the base. Hvar is the next highlight.
Very quiet night (apart from noise from the fridge, so I ultimately switch it off).
Our plan is to go to Palmizana marina at Hvar for the next night.
Leave by 9am, get to the petrol station and fill up, and view islands around Korcula town in passing, including Badija with its beautiful monastery.
Then head towards Hvar town, but first to go to a bay. After 2 hours of motoring at 20 kn which is a bit boring and tiring due to engine noises, we reach Soline bay on S side of Sv Klement for lunch, and anchor successfully.
Willi starts (already) being concerned about getting back to base on time, whilst Jane fully enjoys the pretty bay, its clear water, the wonderful sun and peace - just as one imagines paradise.
Have a good swim and leave for Hvar at 3:30pm; have a look around the harbour, also look for the fuel station but fail to spot it (we hear later it's in a small side arm in the East of the harbour); moor up in Palmizana marina at 4pm - very clean water, children and dogs all swim in the marina.
At 6pm take a taxi boat to Hvar old town. Walk to the top of the citadel for its stunning views, and explore the Old Town.
Have excellent dinner and later stroll around the harbour, leave 10:30 pm back to the marina, the boat ride takes less than 20min.
Next day is our final leg back to Kremik marina.
Friday June 23rd Making best use of our final day at sea.
Leave Palmizana at 8:45am towards Milna, refuel and leave Milna 9:45 am for Necujam bay on the N of Solta, only 8nm from Milna.
Have lunch and a swim and leave at 1pm towards Kremik.
Taking a slow ride whilst leaving Drvenik to port, Jane decides to ride on the bow and sunbathe - which she enjoys but gets sun burnt as the wind does not let one feel the real power of the sun.
Enroute we take a brief look at Frapa marina and around Rogoznica bay - does not seem very notable really.
Then make for Primosten and have enough time to anchor on the east side of the bay. Have a good swim and decide to bring mask and snorkel the next year to make use of the crystal clear water down to 10m depth.
On the way back to Kremik, around 7pm, the sea state is flat, the smooth surface glittering eerily in the evening sun as if it was oil.
From marina Kremik we take a taxi to Primosten to explore the old town and have dinner on the harbour front, wonderful fresh fish in a restaurant called Staro Selo. Then walk to the hilltop and enjoy the fabulous view from the cemetery - blissful ancestors enjoying such views perpetually!
We return to the marina and finish the day with a final drink by candle light.
We are thankful to be back safely, despite a dodgy engine, and with only one minor loss - a towel had gone over board in deep water and been quicker to sink than the "man-over-board" manoeuvre to rescue it.
Sat June 24th Returning home.
Cloudy skies (first time in this week) and rumble of thunder at first but clearing by 10:00 am.
Have breakfast and nice not overly sweet pastries; refuel the boat and get ready to hand it back.
Waiting for the taxi we notice again the presence of crickets and Mediterranean smells of pine and herbs that grow wild and are also cultivated throughout the islands, lavender, rosemary, thyme, marjoram.
The food in restaurants has been very good, generally with fresh local produce used and a good level of sophistication.
As we discuss what to do "next year" it transpires that this year's experience could mark the start of a series of similar holidays on the Croatian Adriatic sea.
